We are able to service Brinsea incubators and can supply a range of spare parts.įinished incubating for the season? Need some handy tips on preparing your incubator for storage?Ĭleaning and Storing Your Incubator After Hatching
If you do purchase a second hand incubator that turns out to be faulty you will need to contact the person that sold it to you not Brinsea.
Even if the machine is less than three years old our guarantee will not be valid.More information on how we use Biomaster can be found by clicking here…īuying a second hand incubator can be a great introduction to hatching for the first time as it keeps costs down but please think carefully before purchasing a second hand incubator as there are many issues to consider: As the silver additives do not leach out from the product there is no risk posed to your chicks, but Biomaster remains active for the working lifetime of the product reducing the growth of harmful organisms. With regards to our incubators the silver additive is held within the plastic matrix with the silver ions working when bacteria come into contact with the surface of the product. I’ve read that some of Brinsea’s incubators now have Biomaster antimicrobial additive in them, does this pose any risk to the chicks?īiomaster Protection is embedded within the plastic itself which prevents the growth of harmful bacteria helping to provide a more hygienic environment for hatching.Īntimicrobial additives are used in many fields, including hospitals and food packaging and is routinely found in many common household products – you probably have many of these products at home, but don’t realise they have antimicrobial additives in them. Refer to Instruction downloads for copies of operating instructions for Brinsea incubators How can I be sure which is correct?Īlways refer to the manufacturer’s instructions as different types of incubators may require different settings. I have been told different temperatures by different people. I am confused about the correct temperature for my eggs. They will not require food or drink in that time. Leave the chicks in the incubator until their down is dry – usually about 24 hours. How long can I leave the chick in the incubator after they have hatched? Turning should be stopped and the machine set level 2-3 days before the eggs are due to hatch. leave the lid open for half an hour per day). There is some evidence that periodic cooling can improve hatch results but this should be achieved in other ways (e.g. The main effect it has on the egg is to cool it as the water evaporates. Spraying eggs can also transmit or spread infection and is therefore not recommended. Spraying only increases humidity for a very short time and will not ‘soften’ the egg shell. Should I spray the eggs during incubation or when they are due to hatch? Generally for poultry it is between 40-50% and for Parrots 35-45% refer to the Brinsea Incubation Handbook What is the correct humidity level for incubation. Refer to the Brinsea Incubation Handbook. The most frequent cause is incorrect humidity – usually too high. This common problem can be caused by many factors. The chicks in my machine are fully formed, some pipped, but did not hatch (late death). What went wrong?Īgain number of possible causes: turning failure, bacterial infection in incubator, temperature fluctuations, power failure or problems with parent stock (e.g. The chicks in my machine are only part formed (very early death). Some species (parrots and birds of prey) need turning at least every hour. It is recommended that poultry, game and waterfowl eggs are turned a minimum of twice a day – ideally more often. For more details refer to the Brinsea Incubation Handbook If the unit is well insulated and the temperature doesn’t drop too much this could be longer. It is essential that eggs are set so that the round end upwards or they are on their sides. When I set the eggs which way up should they be?
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